Temporary and Permanent Hair Transformations
Different Types of Hair Transformations
Temporary Changes: A natural change in hair form, from curly to straight or vice-versa, that is short-lived.
Lifelong Changes: Transforms hair to smooth, curly, or straight, and is long-lasting until the hair is cut.
Duration of Temporary Changes
- Type of Hair
- Environmental Conditions
- Cosmetics Used
- Method and Skill of the Barber
- Use of Accessories
Factors in Temporary Changes
Humidity, heat, and stretching.
Scientific Basis for Temporary Changes
The position of alpha-keratin changes to beta-keratin through heat, humidity, and stretching, breaking hydrogen bonds and uniting with oxygen in the air.
Role of Cosmetics in Temporary Changes
They form a flexible film that prevents the hair from returning to its original form. (Large cells are formed by grouping molecules, called polymers, that are non-penetrating and remain on the surface.)
- Protects hair from moisture; in the presence of moisture, keratin immediately changes to the beta form.
Forms of Cosmetics for Temporary Changes
- Gels
- Setting Lotions – Plasticized
- Foam – Colored Plasticizers
- Hair Lotions
- Hairsprays
Advantages of Cold Perms
- No danger of burns.
- More convenient to apply.
- Better and faster final results.
Precautions for Temporary Changes
- Choose the desired type of styling; if hair is damaged, do not use tweezers, irons, etc.
- The cosmetic used must be appropriate for the hair type and condition; if damaged, use a moisturizing cosmetic.
- Stretching should be suited to each type of styling; excessive strain can cause alopecia.
- The dryer temperature should not be high to avoid burning the hair.
Neutralizing Functions
- Sets the new form.
- Rebuilds the sulfur bridges.
- Restores hair elasticity.
Identification of Permanent Liquids and Hair Types
- #0: White hair and hard or very tough hair.
- No. 1: Normal hair.
- No. 2: Dyed hair.
Difference Between Direct and Indirect Application
- Direct: The product is applied to each section of hair as it is being rolled.
- Indirect: The product is applied after the hair has been rolled.
Factors Affecting Perm Results
- Hair Type
- Cosmetics Used
- Technical Application
Reducing Fluid and Neutralizing Agent
- Reducing Fluid: Thiols + Alkali (Ammonia NH3)
- Neutralizing Agent: Oxidant + Weak Acids
Steps for a Perm
- Examination of the hair.
- Choice of hair, liquid, and molds.
- Protection of client and hairdresser.
- Washing hair with a neutral pH shampoo.
- Mounting.
- Application of reducing fluid.
- Exposure time.
- Rinsing the reducing liquid.
- Eliminating excess water with a towel.
- Application of neutralizer (1st with curlers and 2nd without curlers).
- Professional control.
Type of Shampoo for Permanent Changes
Use a mild shampoo with a neutral pH.
Differences Between a Perm and a Hair Relaxer
| Perm | Hair Relaxer | |
|---|---|---|
| Application Technique | Direct or Indirect | Direct |
| Mold | Cylindrical | N/A |
| Cosmetic Presentation | Liquid | Cream |
| Neutralizing | 2 times, without stretching | 1 time, while combing |
| Reducing Liquid Exposure | 5 to 20 minutes | 15 to 20 minutes |
| Testing | Loop Test | No Loop Test |
| Styling Method After | Setting, Diffuser Drying | Smoothing, Ironing |
Forms of Cosmetics for Perms and Hair Relaxers
- Perm: Liquid.
- Hair Relaxer: Creams and gels for very thick hair.
Product Mix for Hair Relaxer
Liquid suited for the hair type + thickener.
Maximum Exposure Time for Reducing Products
- Hair Relaxer: Between 15 and 20 minutes.
- Perm: 5 to 20 minutes.
Time to Leave Neutralizing Agent
- Perm: Two applications: the 1st from 7 to 10 minutes with molds, and the 2nd for 5 minutes without curlers.
- Hair Relaxer: Only 1 neutralization while combing for 10 minutes.
Loop Test
The test is performed with the reducing agent. A section of hair is given a turn to check if it forms an S-shape, indicating flexibility.