Essential Skincare Ingredient Glossary and Functions

Posted on Dec 23, 2025 in Environmental Biology

Ingredient Types and Functions

Understanding ingredient categories is key to building an effective routine. Here are the main types:

  • Humectant: Draws moisture to the skin from the environment or deeper layers. Best for dry or combination skin. E.g., hyaluronic acid, glycerin, etc.
  • Emollient: Softens and smooths the skin by filling in cracks, leaving a silky feel. Best for mature, dry, or sensitive skin. E.g., squalane, silicones, etc.
  • Occlusives: Prevents water loss (TEWL) by forming a barrier. Ideal for extremely dry or compromised skin, especially at night. E.g., lanolin, beeswax, etc.
  • Exfoliants: Polishes away dead skin cells, improves texture, and unclogs pores. Includes chemical exfoliants (acids) e.g., Alpha Hydroxy Acids, etc., and physical exfoliants e.g., rice bran.
  • Actives: Effective ingredients to target specific skin conditions or concerns. E.g., retinoid, Vitamin C, niacinamide. Some can cause irritation or purging.
  • Antioxidants: Protects the skin against free radical damage. E.g., Vitamin E, green tea extract.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Calms irritated or sensitized skin. E.g., aloe vera, chamomile, etc.
  • Peptides: Stimulates collagen production and skin repairment. E.g., Argireline, etc.

Key Active Ingredients

These ingredients offer targeted benefits:

  • Hyaluronic Acid: A humectant that draws moisture to the skin. Great for everyone, but especially dry skin, and occurs naturally in the body.
  • Glycerin: A humectant that keeps the skin soft and hydrated. Great for all skin types.
  • Squalane: An emollient that mimics the skin’s natural oils, perfect for dry or sensitive skin types.
  • Ceramides: Repairs and maintains the lipid barrier. For dry, sensitive, and eczema-prone types.
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Supports the barrier, soothes, and moisturizes. Great for red/irritated and dry skin.

Treating Hyperpigmentation

Ingredients focused on evening skin tone and reducing dark spots:

  • Vitamin C: An antioxidant that brightens skin and boosts collagen production. Great for dullness, dark spots, and anti-aging.
  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Evens tone, reduces redness and dark spots. Perfect for everyone, especially oily or acne-prone skin types.
  • Alpha Arbutin: Reduces hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Works amazingly for post-acne marks and melasma.
  • Tranexamic Acid: Fades stubborn pigmentation and evens tone. Great for melasma and sensitive skin.
  • Licorice Root Extract: Brightens the skin and calms redness. Perfect for sensitive or irritated skin.

Acne Combatting Ingredients

Formulations designed to manage breakouts:

  • Salicylic Acid: A chemical exfoliant that reaches deep into the pores, reducing acne and comedones. For oily skin.
  • Benzoyl Peroxide: Kills acne-causing bacteria, sheds dead skin cells, and sebum. For active acne.
  • Zinc: Soothes skin and helps to maintain oil control. Acne-prone and sensitive skin benefit greatly.
  • Sulfur: Antibacterial and absorbs oil. Used as a spot treatment for acne.

Chemical Exfoliants Explained

These ingredients promote cell turnover:

  • Glycolic Acid: An AHA that exfoliates, brightens, and smooths fine lines. Works well for dull or aging skin.
  • Lactic Acid: An AHA that gently exfoliates and hydrates at the same time, perfect for sensitive and dry skin.
  • Mandelic Acid: Composed of a larger molecule, which means the exfoliation is gentler. Great for darker skin tones and sensitive types.
  • Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA): Gently exfoliates and has antioxidant properties. Very sensitive or dry skin is ideal for this ingredient.

Anti-Aging Focus

Ingredients targeting signs of aging:

  • Retinol/Retinoids: Speeds up cell turnover, fights acne, and smooths wrinkles. Used on aging or acne-prone skin. *Note: Makes skin more sensitive to sun exposure.*
  • CoQ10: An antioxidant that improves elasticity. For aging or dull skin.

Barrier Repair Components

Ingredients focused on soothing and strengthening the skin barrier:

  • Centella Asiatica (Cica): Calms inflammation and repairs the barrier. Good for red, inflamed, or damaged skin.
  • Aloe Vera: Has anti-inflammatory properties, soothes, and hydrates. For sunburn or irritation.
  • Allantoin: Soothes and protects the skin. Assists in post-treatment care and is suitable for sensitive skin.
  • Green Tea Extract: Is both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. For sensitive/oily skin.
  • Madecassoside: A compound from centella that assists in skin healing. For sensitive/irritated skin.