Almagro’s Expedition to Chile: A Chronicle of Conquest
Getting Ready
Almagro’s Preparations
Diego de Almagro commenced preparations for his Chilean expedition under promising circumstances. News of gold south of Cuzco, purportedly abundant and easily obtainable, spurred the recruitment of 500 Spaniards, many of whom were veterans of Almagro’s Peruvian campaign. His forces also included around 100 enslaved Africans and 1,500 Peruvian yanaconas tasked with transporting weapons, clothing, and provisions.
Inca Deception
The Incas, however, had disseminated misinformation. Intending to rebel against Spanish rule, they sought to divert Almagro’s expedition away from Peru. To maintain the ruse, Almagro dispatched three Spanish soldiers with the Inca ruler to secure safe passage. The Inca assigned Villac-Umu, the empire’s highest religious leader (also known as Manco Inca Yupanqui), along with his brother, Paullu Inca, and his retinue to accompany the Spaniards.
Saavedra’s Advance Party
Juan de Saavedra led an advance party of 100 soldiers to establish a supply depot 130 leagues ahead. His mission was to locate a suitable site and stockpile provisions gathered from the surrounding area.
On the Inca Trail
Departure from Cuzco
Almagro departed Cuzco on July 3, 1535, with 50 men, halting at Moina until the 20th. This delay was caused by Juan Pizarro’s unexpected arrest of Manco Inca Yupanqui, an action that created complications for Almagro.
Journey to Paria
From Moina, Almagro followed the Inca Trail with his contingent of 50 men. They traversed the western region of Lake Titicaca, crossed the Desaguadero River, and joined Saavedra at Paria. There, they encountered 50 Spaniards from Captain Gabriel de Rojas’s company, who had abandoned their leader to join the Chilean expedition, bringing Almagro’s total force to 150 men. They remained near Lake Augallas throughout August, awaiting the thawing of Andean snows.
Tupiza and Growing Concerns
Continuing their journey, they reached Tupiza, where they met Paullu Inca and Villac-Umu, who had collected gold tribute from the region, along with the three Spanish scouts. These Spaniards, during their wait for Almagro, had reportedly intercepted a gold-laden convoy from Chile, further bolstering the expedition’s morale. Almagro paused for two months in Tupiza, anticipating reinforcements. However, news arrived of Bishop Fray Tomás de Berlanga’s arrival in Peru with authority to resolve territorial disputes among the conquistadors. Almagro’s advisors urged his return to Peru, but his desire for Chilean gold compelled him forward. Further setbacks included Villac-Umu’s desertion with the porters and a near-fatal incident where Almagro was thrown from his horse by an arrow aimed at the animal.
Chicoana and the Guachipas River
Despite these challenges, including baggage loss and native conflicts, the Spaniards reached Chicoana, north of Salta, the final stop before crossing the Andes. The thawing snows had swollen the Guachipas River, forcing a day-long crossing on foot, resulting in further losses and desertions.
Crossing the Andes
Hardships in the Mountains
The Spaniards and remaining yanaconas began their ascent into the Andes. The expedition endured extreme hardships: cold, frostbite, and treacherous terrain ravaged both men and horses. The harsh Andean climate claimed the lives of numerous yanaconas, who lacked adequate clothing and footwear, and several Spaniards succumbed to frostbite. This route became known as the Paso de San Francisco.
Almagro’s Advance Team
Concerned for his men, Almagro led a 20-man advance team across the mountains. After three days, they reached the Copiapó Valley (then Copayapu), where they gathered provisions and dispatched them back to the main column.
Arrival in Copiapó
The remaining expedition members eventually reached Copiapó Valley with 240 Spaniards, 1,500 yanaconas, 150 enslaved Africans (including a woman named Malgarida, loyal to Almagro), and 112 horses. Their livestock included 10 Spanish condors and 170 horses, along with numerous native allies. Despite their respite, many yanaconas deserted, leaving the Spaniards short of servants. Almagro responded harshly, executing several natives accused of killing Spanish soldiers.
Encounter with Renegades
While punishing the natives, Almagro received word from chieftains in the Aconcagua region, who sought an alliance with the Spaniards, influenced by two Spanish renegades from Pizarro’s company: Gonzalo Calvo de Barrientos and Antón Cerrada. These two were arguably the first Spaniards to explore Chilean territory. Calvo de Barrientos, having been punished by Pizarro, had ventured south of the Zama Valley, becoming Almagro’s loyal aide.
Arrival of the San Pedro
During their march, Almagro learned of the San Pedro, a ship captained by Ruy Díaz, wrecked near Los Vilos. The ship carried vital supplies for the expedition. At the Conchalí River, near Los Vilos, they met Antón Cerrada, who had persuaded the local natives to welcome Almagro’s column.
Aconcagua Valley and Felipillo’s Treachery
The Spaniards received a warm welcome in the Aconcagua Valley, thanks to Calvo de Barrientos’s influence. However, Felipillo, the conquistadors’ interpreter, sowed distrust among the natives, urging them to attack or flee. The natives ultimately fled northward, but Felipillo and several yanaconas were captured. Felipillo was executed as a warning.
Gómez de Alvarado’s Southern Exploration
Disappointed by the lack of gold, Almagro dispatched Gómez de Alvarado with 70 cavalry and 20 infantry to explore the south. At the Itata River, Alvarado’s forces clashed with the Mapuche, achieving an easy victory due to their superior weaponry and the Mapuche’s unfamiliarity with horses. This skirmish foreshadowed the future Arauco War.
Return to Peru
Upon receiving Alvarado’s report, Almagro decided against further southward expansion. Lacking gold and facing hostile natives, he opted to return to Peru via the Atacama Desert, deeming it preferable to recrossing the Andes. In recognition of his men’s sacrifices, Almagro forgave their debts.
The Atacama Crossing
The Atacama crossing proved as arduous as the Andean trek, with scorching days, freezing nights, hostile natives, and scarce resources. They traveled in small groups, seeking shelter during the day and marching at night. Francisco de Ulloa landed in a village to protect the travelers, staying ahead of them for 18 days before returning to Arequipa by land in February 1537. Only one man, Francisco de Valdés, was lost, having drowned in a river.
The “Broken Chile”
Almagro and his men returned to Peru in a dire state, earning them the moniker “the broken Chile.” It would be four years before Pedro de Valdivia dared to attempt another conquest of Chile.