A Social History of Clothing: From India to Europe
Clothing: A Social History
Clothing in India
Colonial Influence and Westernization
During the colonial period, Western fashion significantly influenced Indian clothing, particularly among men. Indians responded to this influence in three distinct ways:
- Western Dress: Many, especially men, adopted elements of Western attire. The Parsis were early adopters, wearing baggy trousers, phentas (hats), and long collarless coats, often accessorized with boots and walking sticks. Western clothing symbolized modernity and progress for some, while for others, like Dalit converts to Christianity, it represented liberation.
- Traditional Dress: Concerned about the potential loss of cultural identity, some Indians chose to retain traditional clothing.
- Combination of Western and Traditional: A blended approach saw individuals incorporating elements of both styles. Examples include wearing coats and hats with dhotis, or pagris with three-piece suits. Many adopted Western attire for work while maintaining traditional dress at home.
Caste Conflict and Dress Change
India’s rigid caste system dictated social codes for food and clothing. Changes in attire often triggered social unrest, as seen with the Shanar women of Travancore. In the 1820s, influenced by Christian missionaries, they began wearing tailored blouses, a practice forbidden for lower castes. This led to violent clashes with the Nairs, and government intervention ultimately allowed Shanar women to cover their upper bodies, but differently than upper-caste Hindu women.
British Rule and Dress Codes
Cultural misunderstandings surrounding clothing were common. The turban (pagri), a symbol of self-respect for Indians, was expected to remain on the head. The British, however, viewed removing one’s hat as a sign of respect. This difference in customs often led to conflict.
Similarly, the Indian practice of removing shoes before entering places of worship or homes, extended to visiting high-ranking individuals. While the British adhered to this custom when visiting Indian royalty, they expected Indians to do the same when entering British offices, a practice many Indians resisted.
Designing the National Dress
During the struggle for independence, intellectuals sought to create a national dress representing a pan-Indian identity. Rabindranath Tagore proposed a design incorporating Hindu and Muslim elements, resulting in the chapkan (long buttoned coat).
Jnanadanandini Devi, wife of Satyendranath Tagore, popularized the”Brahmika sar” in the late 1870s, a style inspired by Parsi women in Bombay, featuring a sari pinned on the left shoulder with a brooch, worn with a blouse and shoes.
The Swadeshi Movement
The Swadeshi Movement (1905) advocated boycotting British goods and promoted the use of khadi (handspun cloth). While the movement encouraged women to abandon silk and glass bangles, its impact was largely limited to upper-class women due to the higher cost of khadi.
Mahatma Gandhi’s Experiments with Clothing
Mahatma Gandhi powerfully utilized clothing as a symbol, famously adopting a simple dhoti. He championed khadi to promote Swadeshi, even wearing it to the Second Round Table Conference. However, khadi’s cost and maintenance limited its widespread adoption.
While many nationalist leaders preferred traditional attire, figures like Jinnah and B.R. Ambedkar opted for Western suits, with Ambedkar viewing it as a symbol of liberation from caste-based oppression. Women leaders generally wore saris.
Clothing in Europe: A Historical Perspective
Pre-18th Century Dress Codes
Before the 18th century, European clothing was largely determined by regional customs, available materials, and social standing. Sumptuary laws often dictated what different social classes could wear.
Sumptuary Laws
From 1294 until the French Revolution (1789), France enforced sumptuary laws regulating clothing, food, and activities based on social rank. Luxury materials like ermine, fur, silk, velvet, and brocade were reserved for royalty. These laws aimed to reinforce social hierarchy and protect local industries from foreign competition.
Impact of the French Revolution
The French Revolution brought significant changes to clothing. The Jacobins (sans-culottes) rejected knee breeches, favoring loose-fitting attire. Blue, white, and red became symbolic colors, and revolutionary symbols like the red cap of liberty and long trousers gained popularity.
Post-Revolution Dress and the Rise of Industrialization
While social distinctions persisted after the revolution, income became a primary determinant of dress. The Industrial Revolution and mass production of cotton textiles made clothing more affordable. New materials like Indian chintz and later, artificial fibers, further diversified clothing options.
Gender and Clothing
Throughout history, clothing reinforced gender roles. Men’s attire emphasized seriousness and strength, while women’s clothing, often restrictive and uncomfortable, promoted ideals of delicacy and passivity. Corsets, despite causing significant discomfort, were worn to achieve the desired slim waist.
Dress Reform Movements
By the 1830s, women in England and America began advocating for dress reform. They criticized traditional attire for its impracticality, discomfort, and contribution to poor hygiene. While initially facing ridicule, the movement gained momentum, particularly during World War I when women’s participation in the workforce necessitated more practical clothing.
The Impact of War and New Materials
The World Wars significantly impacted women’s fashion. Jewelry and luxurious clothing were largely abandoned, and practical, shorter skirts and trousers became more common. New materials and the rise of sportswear further contributed to the evolution of women’s clothing.
Conclusion
From India’s struggle with colonial influence to Europe’s evolving social norms, clothing has served as a powerful reflection of cultural identity, social hierarchies, and political movements throughout history.