Herbal Medicine and Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Guide

Herbal Medicine and Cosmetics

Black Catechu

Common Names

Kattha, Khadir Catechu

Biological Source

Dried aqueous extract from the hardwood of Acacia catechu (Leguminosae family).

Geographical Source

India, Myanmar

Chemical Constituents

Acacatechins, catechnic acids, quercitine, quercetrine

Chemical Tests

TestsObservationInference
Aqueous extract + lime waterDark brown color turning redBlack catechu may be present
Powder drug + Vanillin + HClPink colorBlack catechu may be present
Aqueous extract + ferric ammonium sulphate + alkaliGreen color turning violetBlack catechu may be present

Uses

Astringent, cough and diarrhea relief, cooling and digestive properties, boils and mouth ulcers treatment, coloring agent

Pale Catechu

Synonyms

Gambier catechu

Biological Source

Dried aqueous extract from leaves and young shoots of Uncaria gambier (Rubiacae family).

Geographical Source

Indonesia

Chemical Constituents

Condensed tannins (catechins), catechu-tannic acid, catechu red, quercetine, gambier fluorescine

Chemical Tests

TestObservationInference
Aqueous extract + lime waterDark brown color turning redPale Catechu may be present
Powdered drug + vanillin + dil. HClPink colorPale Catechu may be present
Aqueous extract + ferric ammonium sulphateGreen color turning violetPale Catechu may be present
Aqueous extract + lead acetateWhite buff pptPale Catechu may be present

Uses

Astringent, diarrhea relief, cough relief, digestive aid, sublingual tablets and lozenges

Ephedra (India)

Common Names

Ma-huang, Ephedra

Biological Source

Dried stem and steam of Ephedra gerardiana, Ephedra sinica (Ephedraceae family).

Geographical Source

China, Pakistan, Australia, India, Spain

Chemical Constituents

Amino alkaloids (L-ephradine, D-ephradine, methyl-ephradine, dimethyl ephradine)

Uses

Asthma, hay fever, bronchitis, whooping cough treatment

Vasaka

Common Names

Adha Toda, Ardushi

Biological Source

Fresh or dried leaves of Adhatoda vasica (Acanthaceae family).

Geographical Source

India, Sri Lanka

Chemical Constituents

Quinazoline alkaloids (vasicine, vasicinone, 6 hydroxy vasicine), volatile oil (vasacene)

Uses

Expectorant, bronchodilator, sedative, anti-spasmodic, diarrhea and dysentery treatment

Balsam of Tolu

Common Names

Balsam of Tolu, Balsamam

Biological Source

Resin obtained from the trunk of Myroxylon balsamum Linn. (Leguminose family).

Geographical Source

Columbia

Chemical Constituents

Resin (80%), free benzoic acid, resin alcohol combined with cinnamic and benzoic acids, tolu resinotannol

Myrrh

Synonyms

Gum myrrh, Bol myrrha

Family

Burseraceae

Biological Source

Commiphora molmol

Chemical Constituents

Volatile oil, gum of resin, ether-soluble resin acid, α, β and γ commiphoric acids, terpenes, cuminic aldehyde, eugenol

Uses

Stimulant, antiseptic, protective, astringent, mouthwashes and gargles

Cinchona

Synonyms

Jesuit’s bark, Peruvian bark

Family

Rubiaceae

Biological Source

Dried bark of cultivated Cinchona Calisaya wedd. trees

Chemical Constituents

Alkaloids (quinidine, quinine, cinchonine, cinchotannic acids)

Uses

Stomachic, tonic, antimalarial, antiseptic, dyspepsia and gastric catarrh treatment

Artemisia

Synonyms

Mugworts, wormwood, sagebrush

Family

Asteraceae

Biological Source

Artemisia annua

Chemical Constituents

Artemisinin, essential oil (myrcene, 1,8-cineole, artemisia ketone, linalool, camphor, alpha-pinene, camphene, ß-pinene, borneol, ß-caryophyllene)

Uses

Scar treatment, stomach problems, epilepsy, irregular menstrual periods, low energy, anxiety, diarrhea, constipation

Tea Leaves

Synonyms

Fig leaf, chaipatti, augur, crystal ball gazer

Family

Theaceae

Biological Source

Prepared leaves and leaf buds of Thea sinensis

Chemical Constituents

Caffeine, theobromine, theophylline, tannin (gallotannic acid), volatile oil, protein, wax, resin, ash

Uses

Stimulant, astringent, diuretic, cancer, heart disease, diabetes, weight loss, cholesterol reduction, mental alertness, antimicrobial

Opium

Synonyms

Raw opium

Family

Papaveraceae

Biological Source

Dried latex from unripe capsules of Papaver somniferum

Chemical Constituents

Alkaloids (morphine, narcotine, codeine)

Uses

Reduces atherosclerosis, pain relief, antidiarrheal, common cold and cough treatment, insomnia treatment

Herbal Cosmetics

Aloe Vera Gel

Family: Liliaceae

Biological Source: Mucilaginous tissue from leaf parenchyma of Aloe species

Chemical Constituents: Barbaloin, aloesin, anthraquinone glycosides, aloe-emodin-anthrone, chrysophanic acid, choline salicylate, saponins

Cosmetic Uses: Pain and itching relief, skin protection, anti-wrinkle properties, wound healing, burns, eczema, psoriasis treatment

Almond Oil

Source: Fixed oil from seeds of Prunus amygdalus

Chemical Constituents: Fixed oil, protein, enzyme emulsin, bitter glycoside amygdalin, volatile oil, benzaldehyde, hydrocyanic acid

Cosmetic Uses: Acne treatment, moisturizing, lipstick and skin cleansing products

Lavender Oil

Source: Essential oil from flower spikes of lavender species

Chemical Constituents: Linolool, linalyl acetate, lauandulyl acetate, eucalyptol, terpineol, ocimene, terpinen-4-ol

Cosmetic Uses: Acne treatment, psoriasis treatment, skin cleansing, redness and irritation reduction

Sandalwood Oil

Source: Distillation of Santalum album Linn. (Santalaceae family)

Chemical Constituents: Santalol (α-santalol and β-santalol), santene, nor-tricycloekasantalene, α-, and β-santalenes

Cosmetic Uses: Perfumery, soaps, face creams, toilet powders

Turmeric

Synonyms: Haldi, Haridra, Indian Saffron

Family: Zingiberaceae

Biological Source: Dried and fresh rhizomes of Curcuma longa Linn.

Chemical Constituents: Volatile oil, resin, starch grains, curcuminoids, turmerone, zingiberene, borneal, cuprylic acid

Uses: Antiseptic, expectorant, coloring agent

Plants Fibers Used As Surgical Dressings

Cotton

Synonyms: Cotton wool, surgical cotton, absorbent cotton, purified cotton

Biological Source: Epidermal trichomes or hairs of Gossypium herbaceum and other Gossypium species seeds (Malvaceae family)

Chemical Constituents: Cellulose, moisture, wax, fat, protoplasm

Uses: Filtering medium, surgical dressing, absorbs blood and fluids, prevents infections, insulating material

Wool

Synonyms: Fleece, coat, woollen hair

Biological Source: Fleece of sheep Ovis aries (Bovodae family)

Chemical Constituents: Keratin (sulfur-containing protein rich in cystine)

Uses: Water absorbable ointment base, water-soluble creams and cosmetics, winter clothing

Silk

Synonyms: Fabric, sarsenet, textile

Biological Source: Cocoons of Bombyx mori and other Bombyx and Antheraea species (Bombycidae family)

Chemical Constituents: Fibroin (protein yielding glycine and alanine upon hydrolysis)

Uses: Clothing, textiles

Rayon

Synonyms: Regenerated cellulose, viscose rayon

Source: Artificial fiber composed of regenerated cellulose

Uses: Fabrics, surgical dressings, absorbent wool

Ayurveda – Indian System of Medicine

Ayurveda is a natural system of medicine originating in India over 3,000 years ago. It is based on the idea that disease is due to an imbalance or stress in a person’s consciousness and encourages lifestyle interventions and natural therapies to regain balance between the body, mind, spirit, and the environment.

Ayurveda is based on the five basic elements: space, air, energy, liquid, and solid. These elements exist in the human body in combined forms as Vata (space and air), Pitta (energy and liquid), and Kapha (liquid and solid). Together, they are called Tridosha (three pillars of life). Ayurveda believes that when these elements are in harmony, a person is healthy. However, in every human being, one of them is dominating, which influences the saptadhatu (seven tissues): Rasa (lymph), Rakta (blood), Meda (adipose tissue), Mamsa (flesh), Majja (nervine tissue), Shukra (reproductive tissue), and Asti (bones).

Ayurvedic medicine mostly uses polyherbal formulations. Some important herbs in Ayurveda include Rauwolfia serpentina, Cassia angustifolia, and Piper longum.

Neem

Synonyms

Margosa, Nim

Family

Meliaceae

Biological Source

Leaves and aerial parts of Azadirachta indica

Chemical Constituents

Azadirachtin, salannin, meliantriol, nimbosteral, quercetin, nimbin, nimbinin, nimbidin, nimbosteral, glycerides of oleic and stearic acids

Uses

Antiseptic, insecticide, antifungal

Benzoin

Synonyms

Sumatra Benzoin, Gum Benzoin, Laban

Family

Styraceae

Biological Source

Balsamic resin from Styrax benzoin

Chemical Constituents

Free balsamic acid and esters, triterpenic acids (siaresinolic acid and sumaresinolic acid)

Uses

Expectorant, carminative, diuretic, antiseptic, protective, compound tincture of benzoin, cosmetics, flavoring agent

Rauwolfia

Common Names

Rauwolfia root, Serpgandha, Chota chand, Serpentine root

Biological Source

Dried roots and rhizomes of Rauwolfia serpentina (Apocynaceae family)

Geographical Source

Africa, America, India, Sri Lanka, Thailand

Chemical Constituents

Reserpine, azmaline, azmacyline, rauwolfinine, serpentine

Uses

Hypertension, mild anxiety, neuropsychiatric disorders, circulatory system treatment

Gokhru

Synonyms

Puncture vine

Family

Zygophyllaceae

Biological Source

Ripened fruit of Tribulus terrestris Linn.

Chemical Constituents

Sapogenins (diosgenin, chlorogenin, hecogenin, neotigogenin), steroidal (terestroside F, tribulosin, trillin, gracillin, dioscin), phytosterols (β-sitosterol, stigmasterol), cinnamic amide derivative (terestiamide)

Uses

Diuretic, tonic, treatment of calculi affections and painful micturition, aphrodisiac, gout, chyavanprash, Dashamoolarishta, gonorrhea treatment